I was watching Rick Stein’s latest programme, A French Odyssey, this evening when I was struck by a quotation he read from Elizabeth David’s book “An Omelette and a Glass of Wine”.

She was making the point that most people will spend a Saturday morning in a city’s art galleries or museums to get a sense of the city but that they should also sample the markets of that place as well to get a rounded idea of their environs.

That started me thinking about the markets in this country. Many were started long ago (Borough Market in London started in 1014) but recently have fallen into sad times selling trainers and accessories for mobile phones.

Why can’t we have markets like they do abroad, like the ones I have seen? The hectic bustle of Anjuna Flea Market in Goa which sells everything from food to clothes, snake charming to ear wax removal. Or the open air charm of the Rue Montorgueil in Paris, once the city’s oyster market. The Boqueria food market in Barcelona with it’s Gaudi designed entrance or the Hötorgshallen in Stockholm, hidden beneath the Filmstaden Cinema, packed with it’s fishmongers, chocolatiers, Turkish food shops, cafes and bars.

Somewhere in the rush to get to the Industrial Revolution we lost our way with food. We forgot how nice simple fresh produce looks, smells and tastes. We lost the desire to buy, to prepare and to eat good food.

I hope that great markets like the Boqueria and Hötorgshallen stay with us. We all need to be reminded of the simple pleasure of great food.